The real adventure happened after I took the cab to the airport. The cab driver was very nice, even gave me his email in case I needed to return to town. Kraznoyarsk Airport has two terminals, one for domestic flights, one for international. One gate each terminal. So I sit in the international 'terminal' waiting for my flight to be called. After a while I ask and find out they don't call out the flights so I am the lat one to check in. The last one to get my visa cheked, the lat one to go through immigration.
But wait a second.....
The guy who checks my passport for my Chinese visa comes running over to the Immigration booth to call me back. I am traveling on what the Chinese call a "72 hour visa" which is kind of a free visitor's pass. The way it works is that the day of arrival does not count. Second and third day count as 24 hours each. The last day counts as 24 hours also, no matter what time of the day tou leave. I have read this on the Chinese government's web site many times. My flight gets to Beijing at 2 a.m. on a Thursday, which is good for me. My departure flight leaves at 3 p.m. Sunday. But here comes trouble.
The visa guy won't let me leave. He is stuck on the 72 hours limit. And he can't seem to skip the first day like te rules say. He starts saying nyet a lot. A LOT! He makes a few phone calls but never gets a real answer. More nyets.
Oddly enough, the visa rule book they use is written in English. There is no Russian version available. I pick up the book, find the relavent passage and try to explain. I draw a calendar which he uses to show his (incorrect) methodology. I must admit my frustration is starting to morph into anger. Not only will I lose a day in China (which I've already paid for), but I'll be stuck somewhere I really don't want to be. Strand me in Paris. Or Rome. Or Chicago. Or even Kyzyl! But please oh please don't strand me in the Kraznoyarsk airport!
Then, at the last possible second he relents. He makes it clear I won't be allowed into China, but he let's me go. Afterwards I wish I had gotten his email address so I could tell him I was easily admitted into China. The flight is long but pleasant. I shake off the weight of the Russian beaurocracy with some gratitude and self-congratlaions.
Don't get me wrong, I truly enjoyed my time in Russia. But on reflection it was a difficult place to enter and a difficult place to leave. You can call it Russia if you like, but I just see it a the same old Soviet beaurocracy in action. And even after all that, a great place to visit!
Downtown Kraznoyarsk.
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